The Wonderful World of Vintage Hermes Ties

June 17, 2018

The Wonderful World of Vintage Hermes Ties

I thought chatting about Vintage Hermes Ties on this Sunday, Father’s Day, would be ideal.

Throughout my many years of curating, one of the most requested items has been for vintage ties-Hermes & Gucci specifically. These two designers are in my top 3 designer’s list for menswear ties (the third being Ferragamo). These top 3 designers in my vintage tie arsenal are the fastest to go.

Today, on this Father’s Day, the focus is on the coveted, vintage Hermes tie. I imagine wearing a vintage Hermes tie is almost like wearing a badge of honor… the vintage designer badge of honor!

At my TVL Shop-in-Shop at AG Antiques on 19th Street in The Heights, I have Hermes, Gucci, Ferragamo and a few other vintage designer ties available.

As with all of my curated pieces within the TVL collection, the vintage Hermes ties have been authenticated. I thought it would be nice to quickly review a few key elements when doing a self-authentication of the coveted Hermes tie…

  • Quality of the Silk Twill Fabric- This glorious fabric is soft, but sturdy to the feel, has a matte fiber finish, and is never shiny.
  • The bias of the Silk Twill Fabric-Hermes uses a distinct direction when constructing their ties. On the front of the tie the direction of the twill always runs 11 o’clock to 5 o’clock. The solid back of the tie has the twill running from 2 o’clock to 8 o’clock.
  • Signature Horse and Carriage Logo-The signature Hermes stamp is square with the horse carriage at top, the word HERMES in the middle, and the PARIS © at center bottom. This stamp is directly printed into the silk fabric. Special note- on each wheel there are five 5 spokes. The carriage on the backside self-loop will have six 6 spokes on the wheels of its carriage.
  • Confirm the tipping of the tie-The “tipping” is the liner under the shell on the back of the tie. The tipping always matches the background which is solid. However, at times, the tipping may have the signature “H”.
  • Signature hand sewn slip stitch- Always check for this key element in the construction of the Hermes tie. This important slip stitch is a single, continuous piece of matching thread that is used to carefully and meticulously sew the tie together. To verify- carefully turn back the folds to reveal the single strand of thread that ends in a loop.
  • Bar Tack-This is a thicker thread that matches the fabric’s background & appears as a small single stitch at the top as well as the bottom of the tie.
  • Signature Dovetail Fold- Unique to Hermes in that this style of fold is always folded left over right.

These pointers are a good start with authenticating your Hermes ties.

I look forward to seeing you at our TVL Shop-in-Shop at AG Antiques. Feel free to contact me if you are looking for particular pieces, need something for a special event, or would like assistance with your vintage selections!




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